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  • in reply to: Cycling from Goa to Mumbai #4061
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      This is the second part in the VLog series of cycling from Goa to Kanpur, covering 2300 km in 18 days, solo.

      Part Deux sees the pedals turning from Malwan to Alibag, along the Konkan Coast. With all the fish curry, vada pav and mango orchards it offers. The route provides some exceptionally scenic vistas.

      The road condition is for the most part good enough to fly on your road bike, if you are of the disposition!

      The food is excellent, provided you enjoy seafood. The people are affable once they get comfortable with you. The riding is extraordinary, with lots of small steep climbs.

      The heat and humidity can be oppressive for those who aren’t used to it. The stretch from Goa to Mumbai along the Konkan Coast is worth cycling at least once…Recommended!

      in reply to: Cycling Monks Strava Group: Weekly Updates #4048
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        Week 8 Update of the Cycling Monks Strava Group. Week ending 26th July 2020.

        Club Stats. 297 members collectively rode 35044 km in 916 rides, climbing 188979 metres in 1677 hours!

        The number of members are up compared to last week. As compared to last week, total kilometres, rides, climbing and number of hours on the saddle are all up.

        Leaderboard: Overall

        Top of the charts is ONCE AGAIN Super Randonneur Sukhwinder Singh from Punjab clocking 965 km. This is the fourth successive week that he has topped the distance charts. This week he rode less than last week, but still an incredible number!

        In second place once again is Subu Narayanan from Tamil Nadu who rode 875  km in the week. This is the second week in succession that he is in second spot.

        Third spot is taken by Shun Athi from Tamil Nadu. He rode 765 km.

        *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

        Leaderboard: Women

        Among the women in the club, Rajlaxmi Teli from Maharashtra was back at the top and in 28th place overall riding 303 km this week. Last week she was third.

        In second place is Ketaki Agtey-Sathe from Maharashtra, with 208 km under her belt for the week. She is 64th overall.

        Third is Simmy Pardal from Uttarakhand having ridden 182 km this week. She is 78th overall.

        There are a total of 4 women in the top 100 this week, same as last week.

        Leaderboard: Longest Ride

        This section of the leaderboard is the only one which sees a major shakeup every week. With the other’s more or less set in stone! But you need to ride upwards of 200 km to be in the top 3.

        Top spot goes to Vishal Pareek  from Rajasthan for the longest ride, doing a 206.8 km long ride!

        Next up is Mr. Unknown (that’s his name!) from Chandigarh having done a 206.2 km ride, just 600 metres less than the top spot. Almost exactly like how last week played out.

        Third is Mohammed Fazil from Karnataka, who did a 200.2 km long ride.

        Leaderboard: Fastest

        Fastest of the lot is Manigandan T from Karnataka who did a fast paced century ride, averaging 32.5 kmph.

        Second fastest for the is Sanjeev Ramki from Tamil Nadu whose weekly average is 32.1 kmph. Last week he was the fastest.

        Third is Rakesh Kumar Pawan from Bihar averaging 31.3 kmph over the week.

        Shivam Singh had a Strava error, which has warped his average speed, so his data is not being taken into account.

        *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

        Leaderboard: King/ Queen of the Mountain

        Tamil Nadu once again takes top spot in the climbing category this week.

        Climber of the week is Joel Sundaram from Tamil Nadu having climbed 6986 metres. This is after Ooty being under lockdown over the weekend!

        Second is Shun Athi from Tamil Nadu, he was top guy last week. He has been accumulating climbing metres on Zwift. He climbed 6434 metres this week.

        Third is Imaad Sait from Tamil Nadu, he climbed 4890 metres during the week.

        *In this category, only rides recorded on devices with barometers are eligible. Phone Strava is known to give wildly inaccurate altitude gain readings and therefore are not taken into account!

        Join the Strava Club today!

        in reply to: Top Cycle Races in India #4047
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          details not available for ultra bob.. can u plz share

          As far as we know, that race has been discontinued, which is why the link is not working.

          in reply to: Cycle Sales up in India post lockdown #3979
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            in reply to: Cycling Monks Strava Group: Weekly Updates #3938
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              Week 7 Update of the Cycling Monks Strava Group. Week ending 19th July 2020.

              Club Stats. 280 members collectively rode 31442 km in 866 rides, climbing 166911 metres in 1522 hours!

              The number of members are up compared to last week. As compared to last week, total kilometres, rides, climbing and number of hours on the saddle are all up. The group this week just about climbed more than they did last week!

              Leaderboard: Overall

              Top of the charts is once again Super Randonneur Sukhwinder Singh from Punjab clocking a 1155 km. This is the third successive week that he has topped the distance charts. This week he rode an incredible mileage, which didn’t allow anyone to come even close!

              In second place once again is Subu Narayanan from Tamil Nadu who rode 832 km in the week. A new entrant to the group and he is off to a flyer!

              Third spot is taken by Rakesh Kumar Pawan from Bihar. He rode 733 km. He is back in the top 3 with a century a day!

              *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

              Leaderboard: Women

              This week didn’t have the big hitters from Maharashtra dominate the leaderboard, since there has been a lockdown imposed in most parts of the state!

              Among the women in the club, Urmi Das from West Bengal was back at the top and in 70th place overall riding 179 km this week.

              In second place is Simmy Pardal from Uttarakhand, with 166 km under her belt for the week. She is 79th overall.

              Third is Rajlaxmi Teli from Maharashtra having ridden 159 km this week. She is 83rd overall.

              There are a total of 4 women in the top 100 this week, down by 3 in comparison to last week.

              Leaderboard: Longest Ride

              Top spot goes to Shivam Singh from Haryana for the longest ride, doing a 200.5 km long ride!

              Next up is Manigandan T from Karnataka having done a 200.1 km ride, just 400 metres less than the top spot. Almost exactly like how last week played out.

              Third is Sukhwinder Singh from Punjab, who did a 150.4 km long ride.

              Leaderboard: Fastest

              Fastest of the lot is Sanjeev Ramki from Tamil Nadu who has been riding fast paced rides including a group century, averaging 33.2 kmph.

              Second fastest for the second consecutive week is Ketaki Agtey-Sathe from Maharashtra also on Zwift whose weekly average is 31.4 kmph.

              Third is new entrant Manav Chandwani from Gujarat averaging 30.7 kmph over the week. This is the entrant from Gujarat.

              *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

              Leaderboard: King/ Queen of the Mountain

              Tamil Nadu takes top spot in the climbing category again this week.

              Climber of the week is Shun A from Tamil Nadu having climbed 4924 metres to his name. All this climbing was done no Zwift!

              *In this category, only rides recorded on devices with barometers are eligible. Phone Strava is known to give wildly inaccurate altitude gain readings and therefore are not taken into account!

              Join the Strava Club today!

              in reply to: Cycling Monks Strava Group: Weekly Updates #3914
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                Week 6 Update of the Cycling Monks Strava Group. Week ending 12th July 2020.

                Club Stats. 249 members collectively rode 27518 km in 780 rides, climbing 165196 metres in 1352 hours!

                The number of members are up compared to last week, but due to lockdowns being enforced in many parts of the country, riding is down. As compared to last week, total kilometres, rides, climbing and number of hours on the saddle are marginally up.

                Leaderboard: Overall

                Top of the charts is once again Super Randonneur Sukhwinder Singh from Punjab clocking a 853 km. The second successive week that he has ridden more than 800 km.

                In second place once again is Rahul Nalawade from Maharashtra who rode 643 km in the week. Another consistent rider at the top of the charts.

                Third spot is taken by Sachin Namade from Maharashtra. He rode 513 km.

                *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

                Leaderboard: Women

                This week once again saw the women’s leaderboard dominated by the ladies from Maharashtra, with the top 4 from the state!

                Among the women in the club, Neha Tikam from Maharashtra was back at the top and in 16th place overall riding over 350 km. After a recovery week, she is back at the top.

                In second place is her teammate Rajlaxmi Teli from Maharashtra, with 276 km under her belt for the week. She is 25th overall.

                Third was taken by Pradnya Ajagar also from Maharashtra having ridden 255 km this week. She is 30th overall.

                There are a total of 7 women in the top 100 this week, up by 3 in comparison to last week.

                Leaderboard: Longest Ride

                Top spot goes to Jagadesh Badiga from Tamil Nadu for the longest ride, doing a 160 km long ride!

                Next up is Makarand Mane from Maharashtra having done a 159.5 km ride, just half a kilometre less that top spot.

                Third is Vikram Seth from Chandigarh, who did a 136 km long ride.

                Leaderboard: Fastest

                The fastest riders are from Maharashtra…

                Fastest of the lot is Anirudh Rangarajan from Maharashtra who has been riding fast paced rides on Zwift with an average speed of 31.3 kmph.

                Second fastest is Ketaki Agtey-Sathe from Maharashtra also on Zwift whose weekly average is 30.4 kmph. She was averaging fast rides last week as well.

                Third is Tarun Kumar from Maharashtra averaging 29.8 kmph over the week.

                *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

                Leaderboard: King/ Queen of the Mountain

                Tamil Nadu takes top spot in the climbing category this week, with two riders from Ooty and one from Maharashtra taking top honours.

                Climber of the week is Joel Sundaram from Tamil Nadu with a whopping 7267 metres to his name. Living in Ooty surely helps as he tops this category for a second week in a row. He climbed 800 metres more than last week.

                Second is another Ooty boy, Imaad Sait, second last week as well, with 5972 metres of climbing under his belt.

                Third is Chandruu from Maharashtra, climbing 5907 metres. 4432 of these metres was in a single ride, a virtual half-Everesting attempt.

                *In this category, only rides recorded on devices with barometers are eligible. Phone Strava is known to give wildly inaccurate altitude gain readings and therefore are not taken into account!

                Join the Strava Club today!

                in reply to: Cycling Monks Strava Group: Weekly Updates #3871
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                  Week 5 Update of the Cycling Monks Strava Group. Week ending 5th July 2020.

                  Club Stats. 232 members collectively rode 27256 km in 774 rides, climbing 164540 metres in 1344 hours!

                  The number of members are up, but due to the monsoons hitting the entire country, riding is down. As compared to last week, total kilometres, rides, climbing and number of hours on the saddle are all down. Here’s to hoping that everyone spends some more time on their bikes…

                   

                   

                   

                   

                   

                   

                  Leaderboard: Overall

                  Top of the charts is Super Randonneur Sukhwinder Singh from Punjab clocking a crazy high 811.4 km. He has been consistently clocking a lot of miles week after week. He also managed the longest ride of the week.

                  In second place is Rahul Nalawade from Maharashtra who rode 683 km in the week. Last week he was tops!

                  Third spot is taken by Rakesh Kumar Pawan from Bihar. He rode 661.5 km.

                  *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

                  Leaderboard: Women

                  This week once again saw the women’s leaderboard dominated by the ladies from Maharashtra, with only one from a different state!

                  Among the women in the club, Pradnya Ajagar from Maharashtra was top and in 24th place overall riding over 286 km.This is the second week in succession that she sits at the top of the standings.

                  In second place is Simmy Pardal from Uttarakhand, with 186 km under her belt for the week. She is 49th overall as well.

                  Third was taken by Ketaki Agtey-Sathe from Maharashtra having ridden 268 km this week. She is 76th overall.

                  There are a total of 4 women in the top 100 this week, down by 1 in comparison to last week.

                  Leaderboard: Longest Ride

                  Top spot goes to Sukhwinder Singh in Punjab for the longest ride, doing a 250 km long ride!

                  Next up is Hemabh Choudhary from Assam having done a 274 km ride.

                  Third is Limbu Ashok from Uttarakhand, who did a 210 km long ride.

                  Being in the top 3, means you need to be riding 200+ km!

                  Leaderboard: Fastest

                  Fastest of the lot is Rakesh Kumar Pawan from Bihar who has constantly been riding centuries with an average speed of 32 kmph.

                  Second fastest is Ketaki Agtey-Sathe from Maharashtra whose weekly average is 31.8 kmph.

                  Third is Sanjeev Ramki from Tamil Nadu averaging 31 kmph over the week.

                  *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

                  Leaderboard: King/ Queen of the Mountain

                  Tamil Nadu clean sweeps the climbing category this week, with two riders from Ooty and one from Chennai taking top honours.

                  Climber of the week is Joel Sundaram from Tamil Nadu with a whopping 6418 metres to his name. Living in Ooty surely helps.

                  Second is another Ooty boy, Imaad Sait, last week’s climber, with 6031 metres of climbing under his belt.

                  Third is Shun A also from Tamil Nadu, climbing 4360 metres.

                  *In this category, only rides recorded on devices with barometers are eligible. Phone Strava is known to give wildly inaccurate altitude gain readings and therefore are not taken into account!

                  Join the Strava Club today!

                  • This reply was modified 5 years, 8 months ago by admin.
                  • This reply was modified 5 years, 8 months ago by admin.
                  in reply to: Cycling Monks Strava Group: Weekly Updates #3837
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                    Week 4 Update of the Cycling Monks Strava Group. Week ending 28th June 2020.

                    Club Stats. 216 members collectively rode 30756 km in 809 rides, climbing 179732 metres in 1525 hours! Collective numbers for the group are constantly increasing…

                     

                    Leaderboard: Overall

                    Top of the charts this week was Rahul Nalawade from Maharashtra clocking a mammoth 733.7 km.

                    In second place is Sumith MK from Karnataka who rode 526.7 km in the week.

                    Third spot is taken by Zeeshan M from Karnataka. This week he rode 490.4 km.

                    The monsoons have ensured that a lot of wet weather riding is taking place. And those who don’t like to ride in the rain are hiding indoors!

                    *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

                    Leaderboard: Women

                    This week once again saw the women’s leaderboard dominated by the ladies from Pune, who have done a clean sweep of the top three positions.

                    Among the women in the club, Pradnya Ajagar from Maharashtra was top and in 5th place overall riding over 483 km.

                    In second place is Neha Tikam from Maharashtra, with 379 km under her belt for the week. She is 14th overall as well.

                    Third was taken by Rajlaxmi Teli from Maharashtra having ridden 268 km this week. She is 23th overall.

                    There are a total of 5 women in the top 100 this week, down by 1 in comparison to last week.

                    Leaderboard: Longest Ride

                    Top spot goes to Divyam Patel currently in Canada for the longest ride, doing a 249 km ride!

                    Next up is Hemant Dhupkar from Madhya Pradesh having done a 202 km ride. This is the first entrant from MP in top spot.

                    Third is Neha Tikam from Maharashtra, who did a 161.5 km long ride. 10 km longer than last week and 100 metres more than 4th placed Vaibhav!

                    Leaderboard: Fastest

                    Fastest of the lot is Tarun Kumar from Maharashtra who has constantly been at the sharp end of things with an average speed of 30.3 kmph.

                    Second fastest is Divyam Patel from Canada whose weekly average is 29.7 kmph.

                    Third is Sam Solomon from Karnataka averaging 29.5 kmph over the week.

                    *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

                    Leaderboard: King/ Queen of the Mountain

                    Climber of the week is Imaad Sait from Tamil Nadu with a whopping 5398 metres to his name. Living in Ooty surely helps his climbing appetite.

                    *In this category, only rides recorded on devices with barometers are eligible. Phone Strava is known to give wildly inaccurate altitude gain readings and therefore cannot be taken into account!

                    Join the Strava Club today!

                    in reply to: Cycling Monks Strava Group: Weekly Updates #3831
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                      Week 3 Update of the Cycling Monks Strava Group. Week ending 21st June 2020.

                      Club Stats. 200 members collectively rode 27547 km in 744 rides, climbing 148082 metres in 1373 hours! WoW, all the numbers are up…

                      Leaderboard: Overall

                      Top of the charts this week was once again Balraj Singh Chauhan from Punjab clocking a whopping 667 km.

                      In second place is Ringkhang Narzary from Assam who rode 635 km in the week. Not far behind top spot.

                      Third spot is taken by Rahul Nalawade from Maharashtra. This week he rode 616 km.

                      Goal posts have moved, you need to be clocking a whopping 600 km or more to be at the front!

                      *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

                      Leaderboard: Women

                      This week saw the women’s leaderboard dominated by the ladies from Pune, who have done a clean sweep of the top three positions.

                      Among the women in the club, Neha Tikam from Maharashtra was top and in 14th place overall riding over 376 km. This is the second straight week she has topped the women’s leaderboard.

                      In second place is Rajlaxmi Teli from Maharashtra, with 311 km under her belt for the week. She is 20th overall as well.

                      Third was taken by Pradnya Ajagar from Maharashtra having ridden 268 km this week. She is 25th overall.

                      There are a total of 6 women in the top 100 this week, doubled from the 3 last week.

                      Leaderboard: Longest Ride

                      Top spot goes to Balraj Singh Chauhan from Punjab for the longest ride, doing a 255 km ride on father’s day!

                      Next up is Ringkhang Narzary from Assam having done a 211 km long ride.

                      Third is Neha Tikam from Maharashtra, who did a 151 km long ride.

                      Leaderboard: Fastest

                      Fastest of the lot is Sanjeev Ramki, from Tamil Nadu as he rode in Chennai at an average speed of 32.7 kmph.

                      Second fastest is Sam Solomon from Karnataka whose weekly average is 30.9 kmph.

                      Third is Tarun Kumar from Maharashtra averaging 30.2 kmph over the week.

                      *Only outdoor rides and ‘smart indoor trainer’ rides considered.

                      Leaderboard: King/ Queen of the Mountain

                      Climber of the week is once again Makarand Mane from Maharashtra.

                      The Western Ghats are where the climbers live, with second spot taken by Imaad Sait from Tamil Nadu.

                      Third is again from the ghats of Pune, Neha Tikam.

                      *In this category, only rides recorded on devices with barometers are eligible. Phone Strava is known to give wildly inaccurate altitude gain readings and therefore cannot be taken into account!

                      Join the Strava Club today!

                       

                      in reply to: Cycling from Goa to Ooty… #3419
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                        The last section of the blog of riding from Goa to Ooty. Cycling in the Nilgiris sees you climbing gorgeous hills till the highest point, Ooty.


                        Cycling in the Nilgiris

                        Day 7: Madikeri to Irrity

                        A day of descending into a sauna.

                        Food

                        A day of culinary delights. It started off with a staple of the state. Sewain bhat, which was basically salty sewain with loads of coconut chutney. Once again, breakfast was for 50 rupees. I believe the laws of the state stipulate as such!

                        This area is famous for its pork. Coorgi Pork is a delicacy of the region, which is a slightly spicy and dry dish. At least that is what I had been told, as I unsuccessfully went in search for it.

                        I saw shops selling raw pork along the highway, but not one restaurant advertising it.

                        If I were serving pork, it would be plastered across the city on big banners in ‘Impact’ font, with the text bold and underlined. The eleventh commandment states, one shall not be subtle with pork!

                        Eventually in Virajpet I had to ask a vegetable vendor to point out a ‘good’ restaurant. ‘By the side of the alcohol shop‘, he told me. Ah! That made perfect sense. The pork was as advertised and not one bit over-hyped.

                        Tea was egg pakodas and chicken samosas on the Karnataka-Kerala border. The food was so good, that I forgot to have tea. The reason for which I had stopped!

                        Dinner was in Kerala. And when in Kerala, eat beef! Beef fry with parotta is my go to food in the state. If I want variety, I order appam. The beef remains constant!

                        food while cycling in the Nilgiris
                        Egg pakodas and chicken samosas

                        beef fry in Kerala
                        Beef fry with parotta and gravy

                        All that glitters is gold!

                        It was a Sunday morning in Madikeri as I was pedalling out of there. People in town were decked to the hilt. Men and women alike were submerged in gold. Not just the jewellery, but the clothes as well!

                        People were swimming in gold in the ultra-cheap lodge I stayed in. Not for a moment could I imagine what the rich and mighty in 5-star resorts looked like. You would probably need special Ray Bans to protect yourself from their ultra-golden radiation!

                        Reliable sources state that these Sunday revellers are visible from outer space.

                        Kerala, here I come!

                        From Madikeri to Virajpet, you ride through scenic roads. Enjoying the countryside, the curves and the descent.

                        Suddenly you are hit by insanity. Vehicles from Kerala are headed in the opposite direction.

                        Now, no matter how much I love the food of the state, the traffic makes me want to avoid the place.

                        I blame the stuntmen bus drivers.

                        The Kerala bus drivers are the worst in the country (and I have ridden in almost every state of the country!). Their anger is rubbed down to lesser mortals like trucks, who in turn push it onto cars, who in turn push the auto-rickshaws. Two-wheelers become coconut chutney in this road grind.

                        I hadn’t seen an iota of aggression for 6 days on Goa or Karnataka roads. Then in half an hour I saw almost 3 accidents right before my eyes.

                        Take a guess, which state these vehicles belonged to. Go on, don’t be shy, guess!

                        Going down isn’t fun!

                        Post Virajpet, the road descends steeply through a forest reserve. The reserve itself is gorgeous and thickly forested. But the road is too steep to descend happily with a fully loaded touring road bike.

                        While going down, the only thought in my mind was, ‘how much fun would it be to ride up this!’

                        Unfortunately, the Himalayas do that to a person. After cycling for 3 months there, I now love climbing a hill. No matter how slow and painful it is.

                        From Madikeri to Kerala, you lose about 1100 metres of altitude.

                        Which translated into real terms is, taking your head out of a freezer and shoving it into a sauna.

                        Cycling in the Nilgiris
                        Now, who wouldn’t want to ride on a road like this!

                        Mother and Child

                        The tea shop where I hogged on egg pakodas and chicken samosas was run by a young mother and her 15 year old son.

                        The both of them spoke to me in impeccable English. On enquiring, the young boy told me his mother was from Trivandrum and so he was Malyaali.

                        But what about his father, who was Kannadiga, I asked. Didn’t he relate to his father’s land of birth and his own residence.

                        Kerala is better than Karnataka the young man told me emphatically!

                        As I was chatting with him, I showed him photographs of my cycle ride from Ladakh. Immediately his eyes glassed over as I spoke. He couldn’t imagine the Himalayas in the same manner that the Ladakhi children couldn’t imagine what an ocean was!

                        Iritty

                        The name of the town where I stayed the night. Contrary to popular (okay, my) belief, Iritty isn’t a shortened version of irritable.

                        Though it could very well be.

                        After cycling through Goa and then Karnataka, Kerala seemed unfriendly.

                        Actually, unfriendly isn’t the correct word.

                        It is just that people don’t smile there. It is as if the government taxes smiling and as such everyone has a permanent stiff upper lip!

                        I wasn’t smiling, but for a different reason. I was looking forward to staying the night in Iritty, a beautiful place according to the photos on the interweb.

                        But it wasn’t. It was a hot, dusty, humid bowl of humanity from where beauty had packed her bags and left a millennia ago!

                        Apparently, the place I had seen on Google was Idukki! Bloody autocorrect…

                        Language

                        Language generally isn’t a problem anywhere in South India for me. Hindi or English helps me get by without too much trouble. Not in Kerala. No one seemed to know (or speak) a word of either language.

                        Which seemed kind of strange considering the state has a supposedly 100% literacy rate. Maybe they need to focus on quality now, not just on quantity.

                        All things aside, I love the state. They have beef fry available everywhere and commies who will protest if anyone tries to ban it!

                        The Ride

                        This day of cycling in the Nilgiris was almost entirely downhill before it flattened off in Kerala. The temperature rises along with the humidity as you move closer to the coast.

                        Food is available everywhere except in that short stretch of forest reserve between Virajpet and the Kerala border. If you are going in the opposite direction and climbing towards Virajpet, then it would be prudent to carry enough water and a bite to eat as well. Since it is a 5% 15 km climb.

                        Accommodation is available in Virajpet and Iritty.

                        I spent 400 on accommodation and 200 on food.

                        Elevation Profile from Madikeri to Iritty

                        Day 8: Iritty to Sultan Bathery

                        All that descending to sea level, ensured a climb back up to the top while cycling in the Nilgiris!

                        Food

                        Kerala doesn’t disappoint when it comes to food.

                        Breakfast is a different beast entirely out there. There is a veritable blitzkrieg which happens in your stomach as you hog on a variety of succulent treats.

                        Even with my limitless cyclist capacity of being an undignified glutton, I couldn’t do justice to all that was on offer.

                        As such, I settled on multiple plates of pazham pori, a banana fritter. Puttu, a cylindrical steamed rice cake, eaten with some curry. If you are smart, you eat it with beef curry! And a type of poori which was more of a standalone snack, than a fried bread.

                        One Tamilian friend once told me, the worst filter coffee of the south you will get in Kerala. I thought it was just regional bias behind that statement, apparently he was right!

                        Lunch was a grandiose affair with loads of rice on a banana leaf, sambhar, papad, salad, fried fish and more. The food was excellent and hospitality which even 5-stars cannot match.

                        Dinner was more beef, this time accompanied with appam. The great thing about beef in Kerala is that you can never go wrong with it. Big or small eatery, it will always be delicious.

                        Breakfast in Kerala.
                        Breakfast: Puttu, poori and pazham pori. Eat and repeat!

                        Lunch in Kerala
                        Lunch. A fish thali, I mean leaf!

                        Beef fry with appam in Kerala
                        Dinner. Appam and beef FTW!

                        The Left Turn was the Right Turn, while the Right Turn was the Wrong Turn

                        Mistakes are the spice of life. Can you imagine how boring life would be if we didn’t make mistakes! This held even truer when cycling on the spice route.

                        Just out of Iritty, there was an option. Go right with the rest of the world or go left. When in Kerala, be a leftist. So left it was!

                        Instead of following the Ultra Spice Race route towards Mananthavady, I turned away on the recommendation of a passerby.

                        And what a mistake it turned out to be. I loved every moment of it!

                        Cycling in the Nilgiris
                        See it to believe it. A place called Boys Town and distance measured in decimal points. I was of course more interested in directions to Girls Town!

                        The Climb

                        I passed a signboard which said, Boys Town 6.27 km.

                        Who in the world gives highway distances to the decimal point and who is crazy enough to name a place Boys Town.

                        Clearly someone who had spent too much time in a ‘toddy parlour‘. Yes things such as toddy parlours exist in Kerala!

                        But I digress.

                        The climb. It was brutal. A 7% climb, which made life, erm, interesting! The last 6 km was at 9%, just to liven up the party. That is when I realised why they had written the distance in decimal points on the signboard. You are going to count every single metre.

                        The final pitch of it had a bit of broken asphalt which made it worse. All the power in my legs was sent for a meeting with the pedals. The wheels in turn weren’t impressed with the power point presentation and snapped a spoke.

                        A broken spoke in the rear wheel meant I needed to pussyfoot my way till the end of the trip.

                        Cycling in the Nilgiris
                        First of the five hairpins up the Boys Town climb!

                        cycling in the Nilgiris
                        The view from halfway up the Boys Town Climb

                        Children of the State

                        The state of children is more or less the same wherever you go in India. They crowd around you, they babble, they touch the cycle and ask a million questions a minute.

                        That wasn’t the case in Kerala.

                        As I washed up, the kids stood around the cycle inquisitively, not one of them touching the bike. They then waited for me to sit down have water and grab a cup of tea. Only then did they sit around me like the audience in a mini-amphitheatre and started the questioning.

                        In the most polite manner imaginable. They took turns asking questions, waited for my response before asking the next question.

                        The conversation was in English. The smaller kids who couldn’t speak the language, would ask the older kids to translate. And the ‘elders’ among them obliged.

                        It was ridiculous how civil those kids were. I am far more used to children being as delightful as a raging cyclone!

                        Cycling Roulette

                        As I was riding through Mananthavady, I spotted an upmarket cycle store. One which sold ‘imported’ bikes!

                        A store of that calibre could easily repair the broken spoke on my cycle. Getting it repaired there would have been the smartest thing to do.

                        One broken spoke weakens the wheel, which leads to another broken spoke and before you know it, the spokes persons have left your party.

                        So I stopped in front of the store and contemplated getting the repair done. But where is the joy in life if you aren’t making foolish decisions. So I rode on hoping that my wheel wouldn’t destroy itself.

                        Post Mananthavady, I once again rolled the dice. A helpful fellow told me to take a back route to Sultan Bathery rather than the highway which I was headed on. What a lovely piece of advice it turned out to be.

                        Cycling in the Nilgiris
                        Pee break. Away from open roads and prying eyes!

                        Advertisements

                        Everyone loves their sleep. People in Kerala more so, apparently. There were innumerable roadside hoardings for mattresses. I clicked a picture of one of the most amusing ads on offer.

                        The other constant ad in the south is for gold. Jewellery ads for brides litter the landscape. Amusingly most of the models in the hoardings look like East Europeans. The fascination with fair skin women pervades every corner of India.

                        Advertisement hoarding in Kerala
                        If your partner ain’t hot, you can call them on the helpline!

                        Sultan Bathery

                        As I was approaching Sultan Bathery, a car from the opposite direction stopped bang in front of me. That morning they had been going in the opposite direction and had seen me near Boys Town. They were shocked that I still hadn’t covered any significant distance, whilst they had driven to their destination, got their work done, and were headed home.

                        Not everyone can comprehend how slow a cycle is!

                        The lodges in Sultan Bathery looked really shady. I went to the least shady looking lodge and took their least shady looking room. Yet it looked like a low budget Bollywood movie.

                        Since no parking was available, I left my bike in the adjacent petrol pump. The manager of the lodge assured me of the safety of my bike, ‘this is Kerala, no one is going to steal a cycle’, he said!

                        I couldn’t sleep the entire night. Not because I was worried about my cycle. But because there were a million bed bugs. I could see them crawling all over. Eventually I slept on the cold hard floor.

                        Cycling in the Nilgiris
                        Who doesn’t love curves like that!

                        The Ride

                        All the altitude I had lost the previous day from Madikeri to Iritty while cycling in the Nilgiris, I gained it back while climbing towards Sultan Bathery. Most of it was in a 6 km stretch of the Boys Town Climb!

                        Post Boys Town, the road continues climbing but it is a gentle climb, which you wouldn’t even notice. Especially after having finished off that brutal climb!

                        There’s accommodation available in Mananthavady and Sultan Bathery. Food is available throughout the route.

                        I spent 400 rupees on accommodation and 280 rupees on food.

                        Elevation Profile from Iritty to Sultan Bathery

                        Day 9: Sultan Bathery to Ooty

                        The final push while cycling in the Nilgiris, almost literally!

                        Food (or lack thereof!)

                        I got out of Sultan Bathery without grabbing breakfast. Assuming that I would get food along the way.

                        ‘Along the way’ happens to be through a forest reserve without a single shop. Food wasn’t my biggest problem though. I didn’t have any water either!

                        At long last my famished mind spotted a dhaba a few kilometres before the Tamil Nadu border.

                        The only option for breakfast was, beef fry. I for one wasn’t complaining!

                        I didn’t stop for lunch at Gudalur, once again hoping to get food further up. Again my stupidity prevailed and I didn’t get anything to eat and once again proceeded to run out of water!

                        Eventually lunch happened at 5 in the evening and consisted of a stale tooti-frooti bun with a cup of tea.

                        In Tamil Nadu I did spot a few beef shops and was quite surprised. Beef was supposed to be a Kerala speciality, right? According to some Tamilians who I asked, Tamils don’t know how to cook beef properly. Beef in Tamil Nadu tastes like a mixture of luke warm water and sandpaper apparently!

                        Dinner was a bit of a redemption with a spicy mysore masala dosa and buckets of coconut chutney!

                        This ride from Goa to Ooty, which otherwise was a food carnival, turned out to be a damp squib on the last day.

                        Kerala-Tamil Nadu border
                        The land of beef comes to an end. Behind the Kerala board is the Tamil Nadu board, welcoming you to the land of the tiger!

                        Forest Reserve

                        This section of forest reserve is a treat to ride through. Because on the other side of Ooty, they don’t allow cyclists. No such problems in Kerala for us humble pedal pushers.

                        A village dog chased me while I was riding through the reserve. It was a pleasant reminder.

                        This was the first dog to get on my arse since I had left Goa. The dog menace is restricted to Goan borders only. Everywhere else, leopards eat them I presume!

                        Gudalur

                        The road from Sultan Bathery till Gudalur has a number of pretty sections. But at no point are you doing any crazy climbing. It is all easy peasy.

                        Once past Gudalur, the climb starts. The third climb of this trip. The first was before Sagara, the second was to Boys Town and then this.

                        This was arguably the toughest of the three, yet it isn’t all that difficult. It only took me four and a half hours to climb the 21 kilometres!

                        By the time I reached TR Bazaar, the end of the climb, I was exhausted and resembled monkey poop.

                        Cycling in the Nilgiris
                        Eucalyptus plantation

                        T R Bazaar

                        T R Bazaar has accommodation I was told. Splendid, just when I needed to stop for the night, a lodge appeared out of thin air.

                        Except it wasn’t quite so magical. A room in the lodge was 4000 rupees for one night. The entire trip’s total accommodation cost wasn’t that much.

                        Thus I moved on!

                        Just outside the gate of the TR Bazaar lodge, I asked a guy for a cheaper place to stay. He told me that the next place was Ooty and nothing in between.

                        As he spoke I noticed he had blood on his forehead. He had crashed right there some 5 minutes before, while riding his scooter. After wishing him good health, I moved on.

                        Ooty beckoned.

                        cycling in the Nilgiris
                        ‘Eeee. How prettyyyyyy’, is what you are always thinking! Also clothes drying on the back of the bike.

                        Rain rain go away

                        There is something about Ooty and me.

                        9 years previously when I had ridden to Ooty on my motorcycle, it was raining like crazy. When I looked up at the same sky after a decade, the clouds were bunching up to start chucking it down.

                        Fortunately the road after TR Bazaar is an easy climb and I gunned it. From 5 kmph to 7.5 kmph. Now the ‘glass half empty’ people will pooh pooh that as a miserable increase of just 2.5 kmph. Even the country’s GDP grows faster!

                        I looked at it as a 50% increase over my previous lazy speeds. And just like that I was impressed with my tortoise self!

                        As Promised…

                        The skies promised a downpour and the heavens opened up.

                        I was sad about having to ride in the rain, but happy that finally my rain gear was going to be used on this ride!

                        All electronics had to be speedily dumped into the waterproof bags. To compound matters, my phone discharged while stored in my saddlebag. And thus Strava couldn’t record my glorious (or not!) ascension to heaven, aka Ooty.

                        Smiles Galore

                        The last day of cycling in the Nilgiris might sound like quite the downer.

                        But, there was something which continuously lifted my spirits, no matter the rain or the brain drain.

                        The smiling faces.

                        Once I crossed over the border from Kerala into Tamil Nadu people once again started smiling, waving and generally being cheerful.

                        Old ladies in the plantations cat-called after me while checking out my legs. Young children ran alongside my cycle as I struggled up climbs. Truckers tooted in acknowledgement of my suffering and the cycle touring world seemed normal again.

                        The stark contrast between morose Kerala and happy Tamil Nadu is felt very deeply when touring on a cycle.

                        cycling in the nilgiris
                        A joy to ride in the shade of these trees. The scent is enchanting

                        Bloody Man

                        The bloodied man who had given me directions in TR Bazaar caught up with me some 4-5 km before Ooty.

                        The persistent rain had slowed a bit. Enough to discard the rain gear and soak in the tiny droplets.

                        It was 8 at night and pitch dark.

                        The gentleman offered me a lift on his scooter till Ooty and promised to drop me off at an affordable lodge.

                        I jumped at the opportunity and on his scooter!

                        He kept the saddlebags on the footboard of his scooter while I sat pillion holding my bike upside down on my lap. The teeth of the bike’s large chainring inches away from my neck as we jostled along the broken road towards Ooty.

                        I was hoping and praying not to hit a big pothole, else I would be decapitated by my own bike, just miles before my final destination!

                        As we rode along, he told me that he was a fruit seller in Ooty and had a few fields near TR Bazaar which he had been visiting during the day.

                        I thanked him when he dropped me off at a lodge. He said, “Just remember me in your prayers, help someone else in need and most importantly, pray for our country as the elections loom!”

                        Ooty

                        Once in Ooty and the exhaustion wore off I cursed myself. It would have taken me an extra half hour for those last 5 kilometres. I shouldn’t have accepted that lift, instead ground it out to ground zero.

                        As I was describing my journey to the lodge manager it struck me. This is a cycle tour, not a race and surely not proving a point to anyone. The beauty of touring is accepting whatever is thrown at you; the good, the bad and the ugly.

                        And thus, it was Ooty finally!

                        This region has some strange fascination with boys. Erm, stay away!

                        The Ride

                        The ride from Sultan Bathery to Gudalur, while cycling in the Nilgiris, is a pleasant and reasonably easy section.

                        Immediately after Gudalur the massive climb starts. If you are crossing Gudalur anywhere after 12 PM, it makes sense to just stay in town and start the next morning.

                        It takes a loaded cyclist four and a half hours up the climb and a long way still to go.

                        After the climb from Gudalur to TR Bazaar, the road continues gaining altitude, but not so dramatically.

                        Food is available almost throughout the route, with just the climb missing some nutrition.

                        Accommodation is available in Gudalur, TR Bazaar (though that is expensive) and Ooty.

                        I spent 400 rupees on accommodation and 225 rupees on food.

                        Elevation profile from Sultan Bathery to Ooty while cycling in the Nilgiris


                        Read Chidambram’s travel tale as he rides 1775 km from Mumbai to Kanyakumari!

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